Luxury News  ·  Fashion  ·  12 October 2026

Paris Fashion Week SS27: The Year the New Creative Directors Proved Themselves

A year ago, Paris witnessed the biggest change of creative directors in modern luxury fashion. Paris Fashion Week SS27 was the moment of truth: the second season for the new names at Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga and Loewe, two new debuts, and a Louis Vuitton finale at the Louvre. Here is what happened, and what it means for how we will dress next spring.

In September 2025, Paris Fashion Week became the stage for an extraordinary generational change. Within a few days, Jonathan Anderson presented his first womenswear collection for Dior, Matthieu Blazy his first for Chanel, Pierpaolo Piccioli his first for Balenciaga, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez their first for Loewe. Never before had so many of the world’s most powerful houses changed hands at the same time.

Debuts are always judged with a degree of curiosity and goodwill. Second seasons are different: they show whether a designer has a vision that lasts. That is why Paris Fashion Week SS27, held from 28 September to 6 October 2026, was so closely watched. The verdict, broadly, was positive. The new guard has settled in, and the houses look more confident, lighter and more wearable than a year ago.

👑 The Big Four: Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga and Loewe

Chanel. On 5 October, Matthieu Blazy returned to the Grand Palais, where he had made his debut a year earlier. His 83-look collection, “La Conversation, Part Three”, explored the many lives of Gabrielle Chanel, from an Edwardian girlhood to the postwar suit. The model who opened and closed the show carried Coco Chanel’s own 2.55 bag, borrowed from the house archives, while 95 illuminated birds hung above the runway. The piece to watch: a new smocked tweed suit.

Dior. Jonathan Anderson showed on 29 September in the Jardin des Tuileries, with a runway over an octagonal pond wrapped in mist. The collection was soft and romantic: almost-transparent tweed jackets over short skirts, fringes covered in petals, pleats on skirts and trousers, and flared metallic trousers in green, copper and silver. Rihanna, Rosalía, Jennifer Lawrence and Anya Taylor-Joy were in the front row.

Balenciaga. On 1 October, Pierpaolo Piccioli took over the Stade Pierre de Coubertin, a 1930s sports arena, with a collection that applied couture techniques to ready-to-wear. Cape coats, organza flower tunics and silk chiffon gowns came in coral oranges and pinks inspired by the sea, with the City and Rodeo bags in royal blue, vermilion and chartreuse. The belt bag worn at the hip could be the next it-bag.

Loewe. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez mixed Spanish Baroque with their American youth: polos worn backwards, a basketball jersey turned into a beaded chiffon slip dress, satin scarves flaring from bullfighter-style taleguilla trousers, and a suede blazer that revisits Loewe’s first garment from 1960. For a Spanish house, it was a confident and joyful collection.

✨ Celine, Hermès, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton

Celine. Michael Rider showed at the Archives nationales, under a thatched-roof structure, with a collection built on contrasts: all-black and all-white, oversized and undersized, wide belts and whip-thin ones. The house codes, from the gold button to the interlinked C’s, were everywhere, but worn with ease.

Hermès. Nadège Vanhée built her collection around one idea: air. Sheer panels, adjustable zipped hems, perforated suede, open knits and a leather blazer pleated like the blades of a ceiling fan. It was quiet luxury at its most literal: clothes designed to let the body breathe.

Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello went the other way, with gold trench coats, blazers, pencil skirts and cocktail dresses under gilded chandeliers at the Trocadéro, closing with ten evening looks in black.

Louis Vuitton. Nicolas Ghesquière closed the week on 6 October in the Cour Carrée of the Louvre. His collection, “Ergonomics”, imagined clothes as a second skin, light, technical and designed with climate change in mind, with monogrammed aviator jackets, mesh dresses and loafers as the shoe of the season. Zendaya, Emma Stone and Catherine Deneuve watched from the front row.

🆕 Two Debuts: Courrèges and Carven

Paris Fashion Week SS27 also had its own new arrivals. At Courrèges, Drew Henry, who previously worked with Phoebe Philo and at Burberry, presented his first collection as creative director. He described it as “breaking out of the white box”, the house’s signature: Mod-style denim jackets, vinyl mini-dresses, battered go-go boots and a T-shirt printed with “Bonjour”. At Carven, Kai Nesselrath, named design director in June, made his debut on 1 October.

📋 The Season at a Glance

🌸 The Trends for Spring 2027

• Lightness: sheer fabrics, open knits and breathable leather, from Hermès to Dior and Louis Vuitton.
• Soft romanticism: petals, pleats, broderie anglaise and light colours.
• Gold glamour: led by Saint Laurent.
• Heritage revisited: archives reinterpreted at Chanel, Loewe and Courrèges.
• Casual meets formal: sportswear and denim worn with tailoring, as at Miu Miu and Stella McCartney.
• The loafer: the shoe of the season, alongside flat sandals and soft ballet-style shoes.

🛍️ Where to Find Them in Marbella

The good news for Marbella is that most of these collections will be just a short walk from the beach next spring. Puerto Banús is one of Spain’s leading luxury shopping destinations, with boutiques from Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balenciaga, Loewe, Prada, Valentino and Brunello Cucinelli, among many others, plus fine watchmakers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.

And the offer is set to grow. Marbella has begun planning a new luxury retail centre on the Golden Mile, opposite the Marbella Club Hotel, with around 7,700 m² of shops, a sign that the world’s top brands see the city as a year-round market, not just a summer one.

For residents, that is part of the appeal. Living in Marbella means having the spring collections, the climate to wear them almost all year and the restaurants, beach clubs and events to show them off, all within minutes of home.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

When was Paris Fashion Week SS27?

The Spring/Summer 2027 women’s ready-to-wear season ran from 28 September to 6 October 2026, with 68 shows and 33 presentations on the official calendar.

Who made their debut at Paris Fashion Week SS27?

Drew Henry presented his first collection as creative director of Courrèges, and Kai Nesselrath made his debut at Carven, where he was named design director in June 2026.

Which show closed Paris Fashion Week SS27?

Louis Vuitton closed the week on 6 October with Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection, shown in the Cour Carrée of the Louvre.

What are the key trends from Paris Fashion Week SS27?

Light and sheer fabrics, soft romanticism, gold glamour, heritage revisited, casual pieces mixed with formal tailoring, and wearable sculptural silhouettes.

Where can I buy these brands in Marbella?

Puerto Banús is home to boutiques from Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Balenciaga, Loewe and many other luxury houses, with more brands on the Golden Mile and in Marbella’s Old Town.

Sources: Forbes, Haute Living, FashionUnited, AnOther Magazine, LVMH, The Zoe Report, Luxe Digital.